30th July 2025 at 12:20 - Damian

We flew to Cartagena in Colombia via Bogota yesterday. We were hit by the evening humidity stepping off the plane and today it got up to 35°C which felt like 41°C, apparently. We were sweaty messes most of the day.

Did some laundry which cost NZ$18.90. Fairly expensive compared to our NZ$6.30 bill on Quito. Things are a bit more touristy and expensive here with a thousand grifts going on as you walk down the street.

We had lunch at an Italian restaurant in the Getsemani district followed by a walking tour which was, as usual, a great way to get some perspective on a new city.

29th July 2025 at 02:33 - Damian

29th July 2025 at 02:32 - Damian

A couple of days ago I borrowed a fellow traveller's underwater camera. When paddling on the surface most of the photos came out a bit murky and blue-tinged but when you dive down and get up close the colours are lovely.

I'm starting to think I may have to up my camera game. The phone can be frustrating, especially around the lack of good optical zoom when bird-spotting.

29th July 2025 at 00:22 - Damian

We returned to Quito from Galapagos yesterday. It was our first organised trip and I have to admit it's probably the best holiday we've had. Expensive though.

We went with Intrepid with their 10-day Classic Galapagos: Central Eastern Islands. It's really 8 days with a day either side in Quito.

Our guide Roberto was excellent. An ex-science teacher with a booming voice he had the perfect balance of information and humour.

Our ten fellow passengers were all a similar age to us or older and were easy to get along with. We were a little worried that we might find ourselves stuck with people who rubbed us up the wrong way but, no. Perfect.

So. A strong recommendation from us if you're looking for a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

27th July 2025 at 07:32 - Damian

A marine iguana chewing algae.

27th July 2025 at 05:56 - Damian

I have no photos or videos for this. They wouldn't do it justice anyway.

We were snorkeling in clear, turquoise water this morning when we came across a large ball of silvery sardines around 3m wide. The shapes and glints of colour of the ball as the fish all moved in coordination was perhaps the most beautiful thing I've ever seen.

But to top it off there was a family of five penguins flashing through the ball turning it into a torus, a spinning top, a disc and every other shape. Eating sardines, of course. So it goes.

I'm lost for words but I wish you all had seen it, too.

25th July 2025 at 04:13 - Damian

Changing of the guard blue-footed booby style.

24th July 2025 at 06:37 - Damian

24th July 2025 at 06:37 - Damian

24th July 2025 at 06:31 - Damian

24th July 2025 at 06:29 - Damian

At the fish market in Puerto Ayora they're not allowed to feed the wildlife but I've got a feeling they do from time to time.

A pelican watching a heron watching a sealion watching the fishmonger.

24th July 2025 at 06:04 - Damian

Update on the cranium. I went to the local public hospital in Puerto Ayora where, with the help of Roberto our guide as interpreter, they x-rayed my skull to check for damage (none), removed our emergency dressings (compliments to Roberto on his handiwork), cleaned everything up and redressed.

Total cost? $0.

Hooray for socialised healthcare!

I had to buy $18 worth of ibuprofen and dressings from the pharmacy. I'm also good to keep snorkeling and have bought a dashing silver latex swimming cap.

23rd July 2025 at 11:02 - Damian

Here's the footage I was trying to get when I bonked my bonce (at 0:24). Disappointingly it wasn't even that great.

23rd July 2025 at 06:37 - Damian

I did a boo-boo. We were snorkeling in a cave and I borrowed someone's GoPro to dive down and film the people and the fish above in the gorgeous blue of the water.

Coming back up for air I didn't realise I'd drifted under the overhang and hit my head on the volcanic rock under water. Managed to not swallow water, found the surface and swam to the nearest inflatable boat where they washed the cuts and got me to the boat for disinfection and bandages.

We're going to be near Santa Cruz island tomorrow where I'll pop in to the doctor's there to see if I need antibiotics.

I'm disappointed that this may jeopardise future snorkeling on this trip. We'll see.

22nd July 2025 at 12:15 - Damian

Some pics from our walk up Isla Bartolomé.

22nd July 2025 at 12:03 - Damian

Lava cactus. The only species of its genus.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lava_cactus

22nd July 2025 at 10:59 - Damian

Great frigatebirds fly like how I imagine pterodactyls flew.

22nd July 2025 at 10:55 - Damian

Great frigatebird

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_frigatebird

22nd July 2025 at 07:56 - Damian

Tiquilia nesiotica (grey matplant)[1] is endemic to the Galapagos. It survives the dry volcanic environment by capturing moisture in its hairy leaves. Its tiny flowers attract insects which in turn feed lizards who feed hawks. Etc, etc.

1. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiquilia_nesiotica

22nd July 2025 at 07:41 - Damian

A Sally Lightfoot crab. They are not frightened of anything.