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13th November 2024 at 19:58 - Sally

Our fellow walkers were great and it was interesting getting to know them over the 4 days. There was a large number of doctors, from Mexico, Belgium, UK and NZ so we were in safe hands. We met some wonderful people from all around the world. Lots of Aussies and quite a few people now living in NZ who came from different countries (please stay!).

13th November 2024 at 19:50 - Sally

The Milford was amazing but quite different to Hump Ridge. The first day was great, after catching the boat from Te Anau Downs we had a leisurely 5km walk to our hut. There were not too many people on our boat so we thought we might not have the full quota of walkers (we only had 1 other couple with us at Hump Ridge). This was quickly disproven as the full 40 walkers arrived by the end of the evening.

13th November 2024 at 19:37 - Sally

And now the truth according to Sally........ We have been spoilt with the weather, and even more spoilt by the facilities on the Hump Ridge Track, not having to carry food or linen (because we had our own room) or cups and plates, and having the bonus of being able to shower was magnificent. 2520 steps on the first day was a lot but they were predictable and therefore much simpler than navigating rocks.

13th November 2024 at 15:08 - Damian

Day 4 (and last) of the Milford Track.

The walk out from Dumping Hut to Sandfly Point is basically flat and 18km long.

Lots of beautiful looming mountains but we're tired by this point and, after the Mackinnon Pass, it's a hard act to follow.

All in all an incredible walk and well deserving of the hype. That's four Great Walks off our list. Seven more to go!

A still river crossing in the early morning.
A still river crossing in the early morning.
Parts of the track have been blasted into solid rock to avoid the requirement for a 3km boat journey.
Parts of the track have been blasted into solid rock to avoid the requirement for a 3km boat journey.
More spectacular waterfalls along the way
More spectacular waterfalls along the way
The end!
The end!

13th November 2024 at 14:58 - Damian

Day 3 of the Milford Track.

Despite rain forecast for this day it was fine and so I had the opportunity to have a second viewing from the top along with Sally (and our packs).

It's a bit of a slog and avalanche warnings were still in place so we had to use the emergency route down the other side which is a bit of a goat track.

Once down we took a detour to Sutherland Falls (highest in Australasia).

Then onwards to our last hut of the tramp, Dumpling Hut.

View back along the Pass
View back along the Pass
This sign is not kidding. Just beyond it is a sheer drop (one of the rangers said it's a 23 second fall). Made me feel ill. Edit: there's no way this is true; 23 second's free fall requires around 2500m of clear air. Lies!
This sign is not kidding. Just beyond it is a sheer drop (one of the rangers said it's a 23 second fall). Made me feel ill. Edit: there's no way this is true; 23 second's free fall requires around 2500m of clear air. Lies!
A family of four kaka were messing around in the trees above our heads on the way up the Pass. Intelligent creatures.
A family of four kaka were messing around in the trees above our heads on the way up the Pass. Intelligent creatures.
The Sutherland Falls. Impossible to take a picture of them from the base as they create their own typhoon wind and everything gets drenched. They sound like a fighter jet continually ripping past above.
The Sutherland Falls. Impossible to take a picture of them from the base as they create their own typhoon wind and everything gets drenched. They sound like a fighter jet continually ripping past above.

13th November 2024 at 14:44 - Damian

Day 2 part 2 of the Milford Track.

The weather forecast wasn't great for day 3 and so I decided to squeeze in a hike (sans pack) up to the Mackinnon Pass at the end of day 2 just in case.

I have no words for how breathtakingly awesome the view was from the top so I'll just post some photos which definitely don't do it justice.

Tarn with reflections of the mountains from the top of Mackinnon Pass.
Tarn with reflections of the mountains from the top of Mackinnon Pass.
Along the Pass a little towards the Mackinnon Shelter.
Along the Pass a little towards the Mackinnon Shelter.
View back down the Clinton valley that we'd walked up that day.
View back down the Clinton valley that we'd walked up that day.
Mt Cook lily (actually a member of the buttercup family) with the ampitheatre at the head of the Clinton valley in the background.
Mt Cook lily (actually a member of the buttercup family) with the ampitheatre at the head of the Clinton valley in the background.

13th November 2024 at 14:35 - Damian

Day 2 of the Milford Track.

At 18km a decent walk to Mintaro Hut following the Clinton River gradually uphill.

Lots of brown trout lazing the the current and although we kept our eyes out for whio (rare blue ducks) in the rapids we were out of luck.

The mountains close in the closer you get to the end and plenty of waterfalls line the way.

The Mackinnon Pass is day 3 of the hike but I decided to add 8km to my day to get a view in case the next day was cloudy. See next post.

The track alongside the Clinton River.
The track alongside the Clinton River.
Not easy to see in the photo but around a dozen brown trout hanging out in the current.
Not easy to see in the photo but around a dozen brown trout hanging out in the current.
One of the many waterfalls along the way.
One of the many waterfalls along the way.

13th November 2024 at 14:21 - Damian

Day 1 of the Milford Track.

The day before we started they'd had something like 120mm of rain which had flooded some sections of the track and caused the groups before us to have to shelter in place and cancelled any groups starting that day.

We arrived at the DOC site to check in at 0905 to learn that the track had only just reopened five minutes prior. By the time we got to any of the previously flooded sections they'd dissipated.

We've been incredibly lucky with the weather lately!

The first day is only 5km after a lengthy bus and boat ride to get to the start of the track. It follows the Clinton River and is wide enough to walk two abreast most of the way.
The first day is only 5km after a lengthy bus and boat ride to get to the start of the track. It follows the Clinton River and is wide enough to walk two abreast most of the way.
The Clinton River
The Clinton River
Plenty of weka on the path throughout the hike. You can't leave your pack unattended!
Plenty of weka on the path throughout the hike. You can't leave your pack unattended!
Tiny carnivorous sundew. There needs to be more of these guys for the sandflies.
Tiny carnivorous sundew. There needs to be more of these guys for the sandflies.

12th November 2024 at 19:10 - Damian

We've just completed the Milford Track. We were so lucky with perfect weather. Too tired to sort through the photos this evening but will post more tomorrow. What an incredible experience.

Us at the top of the Mackinnon Pass.
Us at the top of the Mackinnon Pass.

6th November 2024 at 10:26 - Damian

The Lake2Lake trail follows the Waiau River that flows between the two lakes carrying a huge volume of crystal-clear water.

Waiau River and beech forest
Waiau River and beech forest
The cycle path is smooth enough for our hybrid bike tyres
The cycle path is smooth enough for our hybrid bike tyres
Wetlands along the river
Wetlands along the river

6th November 2024 at 08:20 - Damian

This morning we're cycling the Lake2lake trail between Manapouri and Te Anau. 33km each way. It's going to be a glorious day!

View of the lake from Manapouri village
View of the lake from Manapouri village

5th November 2024 at 14:14 - Damian

We've been in Manapouri the last couple of days. There's an excellent NZMCA park here with showers, laundry, etc. Apart from yesterday the weather has been amazing. A good opportunity to dry the van out after a water top-up accident that flooded the back storage area.

Today the Tour of Southland cycle tour passed through so we cheered them on after a rushed lunch at The Church in town.

We're completely recovered from the Hump Ridge and enjoying lazy days before the Milford Track on Saturday.

The main peloton turning toward Te Anau in Manapouri.
The main peloton turning toward Te Anau in Manapouri.

3rd November 2024 at 09:17 - Damian

Gemstone Beach near Riverton.

Wind twisted trees with driftwood
Wind twisted trees with driftwood
Tiny stones on their way to being sand. 5-10mm in size.
Tiny stones on their way to being sand. 5-10mm in size.

2nd November 2024 at 14:18 - Damian

Stormy on the south coast today so a good excuse to have another chill out day.

Rain on the windshield near Cosy Nook.
Rain on the windshield near Cosy Nook.

1st November 2024 at 19:47 - Damian

Today's been a bit drizzly and so perfect as a recovery day. We've parked up at Monkey Island near Riverton for the night and the weather's just come right for sunset. Perhaps more mooching around tomorrow.

View west from the top of Monkey Island. You can walk to it when the tide is out.
View west from the top of Monkey Island. You can walk to it when the tide is out.
View from the beach back toward Hump Ridge in the far distance.
View from the beach back toward Hump Ridge in the far distance.
Monkey Island (not of LeChuck's Revenge fame)
Monkey Island (not of LeChuck's Revenge fame)

1st November 2024 at 11:30 - Damian

Slinky's Sourdough in Tuatapere is the real deal. Delicious!

Sliced ciabatta with a still-wraped hot sead loaf behind.
Sliced ciabatta with a still-wraped hot sead loaf behind.

1st November 2024 at 09:02 - Damian

Some numbers for October's South Island leg of the campervan trip for posterity:

2248km total averaging 9.1L diesel / 100km = $492 = $15.87/day (incl RUCs).

Accommodation = $222 = $7.16/day.

LPG = 570g/day = $2.21/day.

Food = $3060 = $98.71/day.
(some of the food is collectables like wine and jams)

Total = $123.95/day

travel.peterson.nz/nz.html

Map of our route for October. 2248km.
Map of our route for October. 2248km.

31st October 2024 at 17:26 - Damian

Day 3 part 3 and final final!

We're done. The last 10km was retracing our steps from the first day except this time with rain. Sally's problem foot caused pain at the end of each day but our training has definitely paid off, fitness-wise.

All in all a fantastic walk and highly recommended. If you are wheelchair-bound you can even helicopter in to Okaka Lodge and spend a night there as everything is accessible.

We've got eight days to recuperate before our next tramp, the Milford Track.

31st October 2024 at 13:50 - Damian

Some nice patterns in nature

31st October 2024 at 13:19 - Damian

Day 3 part 2. At Port Craig Lodge it's a short walk down to the beach past the old mill and wharf ruins. People have been reporting pods of Hectors dolphins the last few days but we saw none.

From the lodge it's 7km flattish walk to the first of a series of wild beaches. The tide was in so boots off which was a nice change. Too many sandflies though.

Post box at Port Craig
Post box at Port Craig
Wild and woolly south coast beach. I pulled my calf muscle seconds after this photo sprinting away from an incoming double wave.
Wild and woolly south coast beach. I pulled my calf muscle seconds after this photo sprinting away from an incoming double wave.
Worn log
Worn log

Maps and more

Link to map of NZ travels New Zealand 2021-
Link to map of European travels Europe 2019-2020
Link to map of Scandinavian travels Scandinavia 2017
Link to blog of our UK travels UK/Europe blog 2017-2020