Our travels

13th November 2024 at 14:21 - Damian

Day 1 of the Milford Track.

The day before we started they'd had something like 120mm of rain which had flooded some sections of the track and caused the groups before us to have to shelter in place and cancelled any groups starting that day.

We arrived at the DOC site to check in at 0905 to learn that the track had only just reopened five minutes prior. By the time we got to any of the previously flooded sections they'd dissipated.

We've been incredibly lucky with the weather lately!

The first day is only 5km after a lengthy bus and boat ride to get to the start of the track. It follows the Clinton River and is wide enough to walk two abreast most of the way.

The Clinton River

Plenty of weka on the path throughout the hike. You can't leave your pack unattended!

Tiny carnivorous sundew. There needs to be more of these guys for the sandflies.

12th November 2024 at 19:10 - Damian

We've just completed the Milford Track. We were so lucky with perfect weather. Too tired to sort through the photos this evening but will post more tomorrow. What an incredible experience.

Us at the top of the Mackinnon Pass.

6th November 2024 at 10:26 - Damian

The Lake2Lake trail follows the Waiau River that flows between the two lakes carrying a huge volume of crystal-clear water.

Waiau River and beech forest

The cycle path is smooth enough for our hybrid bike tyres

Wetlands along the river

6th November 2024 at 08:20 - Damian

This morning we're cycling the Lake2lake trail between Manapouri and Te Anau. 33km each way. It's going to be a glorious day!

View of the lake from Manapouri village

5th November 2024 at 14:14 - Damian

We've been in Manapouri the last couple of days. There's an excellent NZMCA park here with showers, laundry, etc. Apart from yesterday the weather has been amazing. A good opportunity to dry the van out after a water top-up accident that flooded the back storage area.

Today the Tour of Southland cycle tour passed through so we cheered them on after a rushed lunch at The Church in town.

We're completely recovered from the Hump Ridge and enjoying lazy days before the Milford Track on Saturday.

The main peloton turning toward Te Anau in Manapouri.

3rd November 2024 at 09:17 - Damian

Gemstone Beach near Riverton.

Wind twisted trees with driftwood

Tiny stones on their way to being sand. 5-10mm in size.

2nd November 2024 at 14:18 - Damian

Stormy on the south coast today so a good excuse to have another chill out day.

Rain on the windshield near Cosy Nook.

1st November 2024 at 19:47 - Damian

Today's been a bit drizzly and so perfect as a recovery day. We've parked up at Monkey Island near Riverton for the night and the weather's just come right for sunset. Perhaps more mooching around tomorrow.

View west from the top of Monkey Island. You can walk to it when the tide is out.

View from the beach back toward Hump Ridge in the far distance.

Monkey Island (not of LeChuck's Revenge fame)

1st November 2024 at 11:30 - Damian

Slinky's Sourdough in Tuatapere is the real deal. Delicious!

Sliced ciabatta with a still-wraped hot sead loaf behind.

1st November 2024 at 09:02 - Damian

Some numbers for October's South Island leg of the campervan trip for posterity:

2248km total averaging 9.1L diesel / 100km = $492 = $15.87/day (incl RUCs).

Accommodation = $222 = $7.16/day.

LPG = 570g/day = $2.21/day.

Food = $3060 = $98.71/day.
(some of the food is collectables like wine and jams)

Total = $123.95/day

https://travel.peterson.nz/nz.html

Map of our route for October. 2248km.

31st October 2024 at 17:26 - Damian

Day 3 part 3 and final final!

We're done. The last 10km was retracing our steps from the first day except this time with rain. Sally's problem foot caused pain at the end of each day but our training has definitely paid off, fitness-wise.

All in all a fantastic walk and highly recommended. If you are wheelchair-bound you can even helicopter in to Okaka Lodge and spend a night there as everything is accessible.

We've got eight days to recuperate before our next tramp, the Milford Track.

31st October 2024 at 13:50 - Damian

Some nice patterns in nature

31st October 2024 at 13:19 - Damian

Day 3 part 2. At Port Craig Lodge it's a short walk down to the beach past the old mill and wharf ruins. People have been reporting pods of Hectors dolphins the last few days but we saw none.

From the lodge it's 7km flattish walk to the first of a series of wild beaches. The tide was in so boots off which was a nice change. Too many sandflies though.

Post box at Port Craig

Wild and woolly south coast beach. I pulled my calf muscle seconds after this photo sprinting away from an incoming double wave.

Worn log

31st October 2024 at 07:16 - Damian

Day 3 part 1 of the Hump Ridge Track.

We've gone for the luxury option for this tramp. It's our first multi-day tramp in years and we thought we'd ease ourselves into it.

Although it's just become a DOC Great Walk, the Hump Ridge Track is still privately run by a trust. The base package is $395 per person and that includes a bunk room bed with pillow. Plus free cooked porridge each day and tea and coffee.

The kitchen in the common area. Free gas, cutlery, crockery and cooking utensils

Our go-to for tramping lunches. Wraps with avocado, camembert, capsicum, salami and Kaitaia Fire. All ingredients that don't need refrigeration.

30th October 2024 at 20:15 - Damian

Day 2 part 4 and final. Of course to finish we had an exact repeat of last night's dinner except with a half bottle of 2018 Gibbston Valley pinot noir instead.

Tuatapere sausages, instant potatoes, peas and gravy.

30th October 2024 at 20:13 - Damian

Day 2 part 3. Once we finished the descent we intercepted an old tram line that was used to haul rimu to Port Craig (more history when we learn about it tomorrow).

10km of waking on unevenly spaced sleepers with rail spikes sticking out and some breathtaking viaducts.

Brand spanking new suspension bridge alongside an existing rail viaduct

Aforementioned viaduct viewed from the new suspension bridge. Can you see Sally?

10km of walking the line

Large sections of the railway were muddy. Not too deep. The new boots have proved their worth. Dry socks at the end of each day.

30th October 2024 at 20:00 - Damian

Day 2 part 2. A long slow descent to sea level over 10km. Lots more boardwalks. Lots of old-growth forest. A cold cutting wind for the first couple of hours before entering the shelter of the bush line.

Boardwalks along the ridge not far from the start this morning.

The contractors have been very considerate working around the trees.

View from luncheon rock

30th October 2024 at 06:22 - Damian

Day 2 part 1 of the Hump Ridge Track.

It's our 20th anniversary today! What a place to spend it.

Looks like it'll be cold and windy for the first couple of hours on the descent today to Port Craig. Lots of steps which will be hard on the knees.

We've got porridge awaiting us at 0700 and we're hoping to be underway by 0730.

Sunrise from Hump Ridge

29th October 2024 at 20:02 - Damian

Day 1 part 5 and final. Tuatapere sausages with instant mash, gravy and peas. Plus classy half-pint glasses of 2015 Peregrine pinot noir.

29th October 2024 at 16:41 - Damian

Day 1 part 4. Arrived at the top and took in the short loop track before heading down to the hut. Incredible landscape with huge rocky outcrops and views both sides toward Bluff and Rakiura as well as further into Fiordland National Park and Lake Poteriteri.

We've splashed out on this trip and paid for a separate room with bed and linen as well as for a shower each. AND we're having Tuatapere sausages and mash for dinner!

Huge rocks and a tarn at the top of the ridge.

Us with a view back toward Tuatapere.

Looking further west into Fiordland National Park and Lake Poteriteri.

Our luxury room with a view.

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