Our travels

21st September 2024 at 06:41 - Damian

Yesterday morning we parked up at Maymorn station on the west side of the Rimutakas and cycled along the old rail trail as far as the tunnel beyond the summit and back again. 36km easy peddling with a bit of cold wind up the top. Returned via Goat Rock Road and were grateful for assist.

Last night we stayed at the Masterton NZMCA and will be catching up with more of Sally's relatives in Greytown for lunch.

Sally entering one of the tunnels. The lights on the bikes came in useful.

19th September 2024 at 12:57 - Damian

Mooral in Bulls

19th September 2024 at 12:28 - Damian

This morning we carried on up the road toward Turoa Village and walked 2km to Waitonga Falls. An upside of this weather is that snow has fallen over the last week or so and we were treated to a winter wonderland.

Today we're driving to Upper Hutt and will be staying at Brewtown and catching up with a bunch of Sally's relatives this evening.

Rotokawa tarn on the way to the falls.

Waitonga Falls.

Perhaps the last and only snow we'll see this year.

Johnny Nation's Chocolate Eclairs in Ohakune. Absolutely massive and only $4. 10 points for size and value. 5 points for taste and texture.

19th September 2024 at 12:17 - Damian

After the bike ride on the excellent Te Awa between Ngaruawahia and Hamilton we drove to Te Kuiti for lunch at Stoked Eatery. A delicious alternative to our regular Bosco stop off.

From there to National Park. Rainy but managed to squeeze in a 30 minute walk to Tawhai Falls on the road to Whakapapa Village before driving to Ohakune.

Stopped in at the Powderkeg for a pint and nibbles and continued 2 minutes to our first (of many) DOC campsites at Mangawhero.

Tawhai Falls. More commonly known as Gollum's Pool due to featuring in LOTR.

The first of hopefully many DOC campsite stays. We bought 2 x year campsite passes for $273 through NZMCA.

The Chateau Tongariro still look spectacular against the mountains as you approach but up close is looking a little derelict. I hope they find some way to give it life if only for my childhood memories.

18th September 2024 at 10:04 - Damian

Yesterday we embarked on our 3 month van trip to the South Island.

We started with a short drive in blustery conditions from Auckland to Ngaruawahia where we pitched up at a free camping spot at The Point, the intersection of the Waikato and Waipa Rivers across the river from Turangawaewae marae. Lunch at Breaking Bread cafe.

This morning clear skies, calm and crisp and we cycled into Hamilton and back wearing gloves and beanies. Beautiful ride on a dedicated path (almost) the entire way.

36.4km there and back from Ngaruawahia to Hamilton. Took us a little over 2 hours.

Perry Cycle Bridge. A dedicated pedestrian and cycle bridge across the Waikato River.

Heading back from Hamilton along the river path. Plenty of people cycling and scootering to work by 0800.

9th September 2024 at 14:13 - Damian

We stayed overnight at Te Arai Regional Park last night and had an early start to walk the beach down to Pakiri and back. 24km all up and took us 6 hours.
Spotted some rare fairy terns, dotterels and a dead seal.

Our camping spot early this morning.

12km of uninterrupted sand.

4th September 2024 at 15:30 - Damian

The tyres on the van require 80psi/5.5bar and these days the air pumps at service stations only go to half of that.

There's a Caltex in Maungaturoto with one of those old wind-up-dial ding-ding ones that goes up high enough but that's the exception.

We've bought a portable pump that's compatible with our existing power tools (i.e. proprietary battery lock-in) which does the job nicely.

Takes 8 minutes(!) from 3.5 to 5.5bar. Also has a blower/sucker attachment for airbeds, etc.

A DeWalt battery/12V plug inflator. Noisy and slow but does the job.

3rd September 2024 at 09:23 - Damian

Geeking out here but Victron provide an app that connects to all the components via Bluetooth which makes life easy. They even provide an open source version for Linux which means I can check in on my Steam Deck.

A screenshot of the Victron app on the phone.

The Victron app running on the Steam Deck.

3rd September 2024 at 09:16 - Damian

The upgrade to LiFePO4 wasn't trivial. The van came with a system that was only compatible with lead acid and so I had to disconnect and route around much of it.

Many thanks to Steve Brackstone who documented his build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhhzU8Pa-iM&list=PLBy0Wq4Logxt0YN6NwOJn5bBycbShap_S

We went with mostly Victron stuff. It's expensive but reliable.

- 200Ah LiFePO4
- 100V/30A MPPT
- 10A DC>DC (alternator to battery)
- Smart charger (mains to leisure and starter)
- SmartShunt
- BMS
- BatteryProtect
- 500W inverter (not Victron)

Diagram of the new system. Mostly Victron-based.

Seats out. Cables and components everywhere. A total mess but following a plan.

The finished system prior to a bit of cable tidying and reinstalling the seats.

3rd September 2024 at 08:47 - Damian

With the batteries becoming increasingly unreliable, and with a battery upgrade to LiFePO4 so difficult, I decided to double the solar late last year.

This didn't help in winter or rainy days unfortunately.

It's difficult to accurately measure the capacity of batteries and so I installed a SmartShunt that was able to tell me exactly how much energy was flowing into and out of the system.

It turned out that one of the batteries was at 30% capacity and the other was 16%. Time to upgrade.

New solar panels added to the roof in September 2023. 400W in total.

A Victron SmartShunt added to get an idea of the capacity of the AGM batteries.

3rd September 2024 at 08:25 - Damian

When we first purchased the van in 2019 I put a 200W panel on the roof and an additional 100Ah AGM lead acid leisure battery under the passenger seat.

We were careful not to let the batteries discharge to less than 50% but living in the van full time around Europe took its toll and they began to lose their capacity five years on.

200Ah of battery plus 200W solar served us well and we were able to live off-grid for long periods of time. But by 2024 we were lucky to last 24 hours in winter.

200W solar panel on the roof of the van.

The leisure batteries live under the passenger seat. This photo was taken on an absolutely scorching day in York in 2019. The cavity barely fits 2 x 100Ah batteries.

30th August 2024 at 09:30 - Damian

I've heard multiple horror stories of people whose campervan's wiring and hydraulics was destroyed by mice and rats who found a home in the warmth of their engine bay.

We've never experienced this in the five years we've had ours but I've decided to add a bait block just in case. If anything it'll show the presence of rodents by way of nibble marks.

[edit: on advice from others I've removed this until such time as we have an issue as it will likely attract rodents with the scent]

A rat bait block inside a small plastic container with an access hole. Attached by a cable tie inside the engine bay.

24th August 2024 at 10:48 - Damian

Since returning to NZ we've been enjoying blobbing out watching TV and getting the house in order. It's also been great to be able to make baguettes, pizza, sauerkraut and home-cooked meals.

Next month we're planning to head south for around 15 weeks and explore in the campervan. Still in the planning stages but we have a couple of tramps locked in.

We'll be taking the bikes and leaving the kayak at home for this trip. In the New Year we'll return to the top of the South for kayaking.

A map of NZ with places we've been to in the campervan since returning in 2020.

A work in progress planning a 15 week road trip in the South Island.

20th August 2024 at 07:05 - Damian

Yay! Back in rainy NZ. Bus to Puhinui, train to Britomart and two buses to Northcote. It's been five weeks of public transport and we've loved (almost) every minute of it. Nice to not have to look at a map for this one

[edit: added costs overview]

Breakdown of costs (NZ$) for posterity: Total spent for 34 days was $18,700. Excluding flights was $440 per day. Flights $3.7k, Travel $2.1k, Accommodation $5.5k, Food/drink $6.0k, Other (activities/gifts/clothes/etc) $1.4k.

19th August 2024 at 14:00 - Damian

Yesterday we left Portland in the early afternoon and arrived into Emeryville/San Francisco this morning. A nice uneventful train journey.

Today after we stowed our bags at the first hotel we stayed at we did a bit of shopping and went on one final walking tour. This one was of the "Barbary Coast"¹, a rough dockside area of the old city that's undergone many many changes over the years. Super interesting.

We're now at the airport and flying out at 2200.

1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barbary_Coast,_San_Francisco

Sally demonstrating the size of the seats in coach class. They go back 45° and have leg rests that lever up. Lots of space between them but still pretty uncomfortable to try to sleep in.

Portland Union Station.

A rare breakfast for us. At The Mont just down the road from where we were staying. Eggs bene for me. Sally had breakfast burritos but I wasn't fast enough to get a picture of it.

17th August 2024 at 16:13 - Damian

A short jaunt up the Columbia River to Multnomah Falls today. On the way back we spent two hours stopped on the motorway for what could only have been a fatal crash 😞

View of the Multnomah Falls from the bottom. It's only about a 30 minute walk to the top on a nicely paved walkway.

17th August 2024 at 15:00 - Damian

Portland has Benson Bubblers¹. Clean drinking water.

1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benson_Bubbler

Sally demonstrating the local's trick to increasing flow by blocking two of the nozzles.

17th August 2024 at 03:21 - Damian

The food in Portland has been exceptional. We've not yet come across a dud. Last night we went to Apizza Scholls in the Hawthorn neighbourhood which is only 30 minutes walk from our Belmont location.

18" Margarita. See pint glass to the right for size. We could only eat half.

17th August 2024 at 02:59 - Damian

Today is our last full day in Portland 😞

Yesterday we did the 4-T Trail¹ which took us up a gondola and a 7km hike to Washington Park² where we visited the massive rose garden and Japanese garden.

1. https://www.4t-trail.org/take-a-hike/4t-map/
2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Washington_Park_(Portland,_Oregon)