Latest blog posts

31st October 2024 at 07:16 - Damian

Day 3 part 1 of the Hump Ridge Track.

We've gone for the luxury option for this tramp. It's our first multi-day tramp in years and we thought we'd ease ourselves into it.

Although it's just become a DOC Great Walk, the Hump Ridge Track is still privately run by a trust. The base package is $395 per person and that includes a bunk room bed with pillow. Plus free cooked porridge each day and tea and coffee.

The kitchen in the common area. Free gas, cutlery, crockery and cooking utensils
The kitchen in the common area. Free gas, cutlery, crockery and cooking utensils
Our go-to for tramping lunches. Wraps with avocado, camembert, capsicum, salami and Kaitaia Fire. All ingredients that don't need refrigeration.
Our go-to for tramping lunches. Wraps with avocado, camembert, capsicum, salami and Kaitaia Fire. All ingredients that don't need refrigeration.

30th October 2024 at 20:15 - Damian

Day 2 part 4 and final. Of course to finish we had an exact repeat of last night's dinner except with a half bottle of 2018 Gibbston Valley pinot noir instead.

Tuatapere sausages, instant potatoes, peas and gravy.
Tuatapere sausages, instant potatoes, peas and gravy.

30th October 2024 at 20:13 - Damian

Day 2 part 3. Once we finished the descent we intercepted an old tram line that was used to haul rimu to Port Craig (more history when we learn about it tomorrow).

10km of waking on unevenly spaced sleepers with rail spikes sticking out and some breathtaking viaducts.

Brand spanking new suspension bridge alongside an existing rail viaduct
Brand spanking new suspension bridge alongside an existing rail viaduct
Aforementioned viaduct viewed from the new suspension bridge. Can you see Sally?
Aforementioned viaduct viewed from the new suspension bridge. Can you see Sally?
10km of walking the line
10km of walking the line
Large sections of the railway were muddy. Not too deep. The new boots have proved their worth. Dry socks at the end of each day.
Large sections of the railway were muddy. Not too deep. The new boots have proved their worth. Dry socks at the end of each day.

30th October 2024 at 20:00 - Damian

Day 2 part 2. A long slow descent to sea level over 10km. Lots more boardwalks. Lots of old-growth forest. A cold cutting wind for the first couple of hours before entering the shelter of the bush line.

Boardwalks along the ridge not far from the start this morning.
Boardwalks along the ridge not far from the start this morning.
The contractors have been very considerate working around the trees.
The contractors have been very considerate working around the trees.
View from luncheon rock
View from luncheon rock

30th October 2024 at 06:22 - Damian

Day 2 part 1 of the Hump Ridge Track.

It's our 20th anniversary today! What a place to spend it.

Looks like it'll be cold and windy for the first couple of hours on the descent today to Port Craig. Lots of steps which will be hard on the knees.

We've got porridge awaiting us at 0700 and we're hoping to be underway by 0730.

Sunrise from Hump Ridge
Sunrise from Hump Ridge

29th October 2024 at 20:02 - Damian

Day 1 part 5 and final. Tuatapere sausages with instant mash, gravy and peas. Plus classy half-pint glasses of 2015 Peregrine pinot noir.

29th October 2024 at 16:41 - Damian

Day 1 part 4. Arrived at the top and took in the short loop track before heading down to the hut. Incredible landscape with huge rocky outcrops and views both sides toward Bluff and Rakiura as well as further into Fiordland National Park and Lake Poteriteri.

We've splashed out on this trip and paid for a separate room with bed and linen as well as for a shower each. AND we're having Tuatapere sausages and mash for dinner!

Huge rocks and a tarn at the top of the ridge.
Huge rocks and a tarn at the top of the ridge.
Us with a view back toward Tuatapere.
Us with a view back toward Tuatapere.
Looking further west into Fiordland National Park and Lake Poteriteri.
Looking further west into Fiordland National Park and Lake Poteriteri.
Our luxury room with a view.
Our luxury room with a view.

29th October 2024 at 14:27 - Damian

Day 1 part 3. What a climb but what a view!

Apparently 2520 steps in total on the first day.

View from Stag Point toward Tuatapere.
View from Stag Point toward Tuatapere.
New steps put in by DOC contractors in the last few months.
New steps put in by DOC contractors in the last few months.
More steps.
More steps.

29th October 2024 at 13:46 - Damian

Day 1 part 2. 14km and five hours in. Left the coast and have been heading inland for a couple of hours over long stretches of boardwalk.

Stopped for lunch at the shelter just before the slog to the top which gains 700m over 6km.

Lots of boardwalks
Lots of boardwalks
The shelter before the climb
The shelter before the climb
Elevation profile
Elevation profile

29th October 2024 at 09:00 - Damian

Morning! Day 1, part 1 of Hump Ridge Track. 30 minutes of bush walk and then down onto the beach.

We're keeping an eye out for Hectors dolphins, seals and penguins.

It's a beautiful day but it's going to be a long one. 21km with an elevation gain of 1120m.

The entryway to the track.
The entryway to the track.
Lots of boardwalks over eroded sections of the track.
Lots of boardwalks over eroded sections of the track.
3km beach section.
3km beach section.

28th October 2024 at 16:29 - Damian

Tomorrow we're beginning NZ's newest Great Walk: the three-day, 60km Hump Ridge Track¹ near Tuatapere. It officially became a Great Walk three days ago and there will only be *two other people* starting it on the same day as us.

Prepare for an influx of photos over the next few days.

1. doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreati

28th October 2024 at 09:42 - Damian

We've been off-grid since we've been away and have even had the alternator-to-battery charging off. Solar only. In the last 30 days we've only gone as low as 69% and that was after charging two e-bikes on a rainy day.

On average, we use around 10% of our capacity per day which means we'd be able to go without any sun for over a week without having to charge via the alternator.

The new 200Ah LiFePO4 + 400W PV setup is perfect.

A graph of the discharge/charge cycles for the last 30 days.
A graph of the discharge/charge cycles for the last 30 days.

27th October 2024 at 21:42 - Damian

The last three days have been a real mixed bag, weather-wise. After rainy Arrowtown the weather was beautiful and so we walked 8km around Lake Hayes (we saw crested grebes!), stayed with friends (Mauro and Yael) in Jacks Point and went out to Sundays in Frankton for excellent pizza. Yesterday it snowed and we made our way to Alexandra. Today the sun came out and we went to a small winegrowers festival in Clyde and caught up with friends (Robyn and Paul) who have their own small winery.

Lake Hayes
Lake Hayes
Snow at Roaring Meg
Snow at Roaring Meg
Perusing the vines at Robyn and Paul's place.
Perusing the vines at Robyn and Paul's place.

24th October 2024 at 17:10 - Damian

Rainy day today so we've swung by Frankton and gone to a proper holiday park in Arrowtown to do household chores.

Bought new tramping boots due to an eyelet malfunction in my comfortable 7 year old boots which means some emergency breaking-in before our Hump Ridge Track walk in just under a week.

Two loads of washing (plus one more to go) and a long hot shower (for me, Sally didn't realise you have to wait a bit for the water 😞).

$50 per night at the campground. Nice to have luxuries.

Any time we come to Queenstown it's a compulsory stop at Ma Boulangerie. A proper French bakery with great bread and look at these gems! So good.
Any time we come to Queenstown it's a compulsory stop at Ma Boulangerie. A proper French bakery with great bread and look at these gems! So good.

23rd October 2024 at 12:40 - Damian

This morning we cycled part of the Lake Dunstan trail. 18km to the point opposite Cromwell historic centre and back again. Stopped at the conveniently-located Carrick Wines for pizza and wine (pinot noir for me, rosé for Sal).
Excellent quality trail surface and easy cycling.

Not snow.
Not snow.
Gorgeous yellow wildflowers.
Gorgeous yellow wildflowers.
and purple heather stuff
and purple heather stuff
At the winery awaiting food
At the winery awaiting food

23rd October 2024 at 12:29 - Damian

Saint Bathans geography

Eroded cliffs by the lake.
Eroded cliffs by the lake.
Just some cracked mud. Lots of erosion here.
Just some cracked mud. Lots of erosion here.

22nd October 2024 at 15:14 - Damian

Saint Bathans

The Vulcan Hotel
The Vulcan Hotel
Blue Lake at St Bathans. Left over from the sluicing for gold.
Blue Lake at St Bathans. Left over from the sluicing for gold.

20th October 2024 at 16:31 - Sally

Thanks to Uncle Martin and Irene for the Riverstone Kitchen recommendation. We really enjoyed it. Cheese souffle was my favourite but everything we had was outstanding.

Cheese Souffle and bubbles
Cheese Souffle and bubbles

20th October 2024 at 06:55 - Damian

We've had a much-needed couple of days off and last night treated ourselves to a fancy dinner at Riverstone Kitchen just north of Oamaru. We're also booked in for a rare (for us) breakfast this morning.

There's a fancy castle here that we're not particularly interested in having seen too many of Europe's castles. If it's not built to keep invaders out it's a folly.

A montage of our meal last night. Delicious and generous portions.
A montage of our meal last night. Delicious and generous portions.

18th October 2024 at 13:21 - Damian

Waihao Box near Waimate
Waihao Box near Waimate

Maps and more

Link to map of NZ travels New Zealand 2021-
Link to map of European travels Europe 2019-2020
Link to map of Scandinavian travels Scandinavia 2017
Link to blog of our UK travels UK/Europe blog 2017-2020