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5th November 2024 at 14:14 - Damian

We've been in Manapouri the last couple of days. There's an excellent NZMCA park here with showers, laundry, etc. Apart from yesterday the weather has been amazing. A good opportunity to dry the van out after a water top-up accident that flooded the back storage area.

Today the Tour of Southland cycle tour passed through so we cheered them on after a rushed lunch at The Church in town.

We're completely recovered from the Hump Ridge and enjoying lazy days before the Milford Track on Saturday.

The main peloton turning toward Te Anau in Manapouri.
The main peloton turning toward Te Anau in Manapouri.

3rd November 2024 at 09:17 - Damian

Gemstone Beach near Riverton.

Wind twisted trees with driftwood
Wind twisted trees with driftwood
Tiny stones on their way to being sand. 5-10mm in size.
Tiny stones on their way to being sand. 5-10mm in size.

2nd November 2024 at 14:18 - Damian

Stormy on the south coast today so a good excuse to have another chill out day.

Rain on the windshield near Cosy Nook.
Rain on the windshield near Cosy Nook.

1st November 2024 at 19:47 - Damian

Today's been a bit drizzly and so perfect as a recovery day. We've parked up at Monkey Island near Riverton for the night and the weather's just come right for sunset. Perhaps more mooching around tomorrow.

View west from the top of Monkey Island. You can walk to it when the tide is out.
View west from the top of Monkey Island. You can walk to it when the tide is out.
View from the beach back toward Hump Ridge in the far distance.
View from the beach back toward Hump Ridge in the far distance.
Monkey Island (not of LeChuck's Revenge fame)
Monkey Island (not of LeChuck's Revenge fame)

1st November 2024 at 11:30 - Damian

Slinky's Sourdough in Tuatapere is the real deal. Delicious!

Sliced ciabatta with a still-wraped hot sead loaf behind.
Sliced ciabatta with a still-wraped hot sead loaf behind.

1st November 2024 at 09:02 - Damian

Some numbers for October's South Island leg of the campervan trip for posterity:

2248km total averaging 9.1L diesel / 100km = $492 = $15.87/day (incl RUCs).

Accommodation = $222 = $7.16/day.

LPG = 570g/day = $2.21/day.

Food = $3060 = $98.71/day.
(some of the food is collectables like wine and jams)

Total = $123.95/day

travel.peterson.nz/nz.html

Map of our route for October. 2248km.
Map of our route for October. 2248km.

31st October 2024 at 17:26 - Damian

Day 3 part 3 and final final!

We're done. The last 10km was retracing our steps from the first day except this time with rain. Sally's problem foot caused pain at the end of each day but our training has definitely paid off, fitness-wise.

All in all a fantastic walk and highly recommended. If you are wheelchair-bound you can even helicopter in to Okaka Lodge and spend a night there as everything is accessible.

We've got eight days to recuperate before our next tramp, the Milford Track.

31st October 2024 at 13:50 - Damian

Some nice patterns in nature

31st October 2024 at 13:19 - Damian

Day 3 part 2. At Port Craig Lodge it's a short walk down to the beach past the old mill and wharf ruins. People have been reporting pods of Hectors dolphins the last few days but we saw none.

From the lodge it's 7km flattish walk to the first of a series of wild beaches. The tide was in so boots off which was a nice change. Too many sandflies though.

Post box at Port Craig
Post box at Port Craig
Wild and woolly south coast beach. I pulled my calf muscle seconds after this photo sprinting away from an incoming double wave.
Wild and woolly south coast beach. I pulled my calf muscle seconds after this photo sprinting away from an incoming double wave.
Worn log
Worn log

31st October 2024 at 07:16 - Damian

Day 3 part 1 of the Hump Ridge Track.

We've gone for the luxury option for this tramp. It's our first multi-day tramp in years and we thought we'd ease ourselves into it.

Although it's just become a DOC Great Walk, the Hump Ridge Track is still privately run by a trust. The base package is $395 per person and that includes a bunk room bed with pillow. Plus free cooked porridge each day and tea and coffee.

The kitchen in the common area. Free gas, cutlery, crockery and cooking utensils
The kitchen in the common area. Free gas, cutlery, crockery and cooking utensils
Our go-to for tramping lunches. Wraps with avocado, camembert, capsicum, salami and Kaitaia Fire. All ingredients that don't need refrigeration.
Our go-to for tramping lunches. Wraps with avocado, camembert, capsicum, salami and Kaitaia Fire. All ingredients that don't need refrigeration.

30th October 2024 at 20:15 - Damian

Day 2 part 4 and final. Of course to finish we had an exact repeat of last night's dinner except with a half bottle of 2018 Gibbston Valley pinot noir instead.

Tuatapere sausages, instant potatoes, peas and gravy.
Tuatapere sausages, instant potatoes, peas and gravy.

30th October 2024 at 20:13 - Damian

Day 2 part 3. Once we finished the descent we intercepted an old tram line that was used to haul rimu to Port Craig (more history when we learn about it tomorrow).

10km of waking on unevenly spaced sleepers with rail spikes sticking out and some breathtaking viaducts.

Brand spanking new suspension bridge alongside an existing rail viaduct
Brand spanking new suspension bridge alongside an existing rail viaduct
Aforementioned viaduct viewed from the new suspension bridge. Can you see Sally?
Aforementioned viaduct viewed from the new suspension bridge. Can you see Sally?
10km of walking the line
10km of walking the line
Large sections of the railway were muddy. Not too deep. The new boots have proved their worth. Dry socks at the end of each day.
Large sections of the railway were muddy. Not too deep. The new boots have proved their worth. Dry socks at the end of each day.

30th October 2024 at 20:00 - Damian

Day 2 part 2. A long slow descent to sea level over 10km. Lots more boardwalks. Lots of old-growth forest. A cold cutting wind for the first couple of hours before entering the shelter of the bush line.

Boardwalks along the ridge not far from the start this morning.
Boardwalks along the ridge not far from the start this morning.
The contractors have been very considerate working around the trees.
The contractors have been very considerate working around the trees.
View from luncheon rock
View from luncheon rock

30th October 2024 at 06:22 - Damian

Day 2 part 1 of the Hump Ridge Track.

It's our 20th anniversary today! What a place to spend it.

Looks like it'll be cold and windy for the first couple of hours on the descent today to Port Craig. Lots of steps which will be hard on the knees.

We've got porridge awaiting us at 0700 and we're hoping to be underway by 0730.

Sunrise from Hump Ridge
Sunrise from Hump Ridge

29th October 2024 at 20:02 - Damian

Day 1 part 5 and final. Tuatapere sausages with instant mash, gravy and peas. Plus classy half-pint glasses of 2015 Peregrine pinot noir.

29th October 2024 at 16:41 - Damian

Day 1 part 4. Arrived at the top and took in the short loop track before heading down to the hut. Incredible landscape with huge rocky outcrops and views both sides toward Bluff and Rakiura as well as further into Fiordland National Park and Lake Poteriteri.

We've splashed out on this trip and paid for a separate room with bed and linen as well as for a shower each. AND we're having Tuatapere sausages and mash for dinner!

Huge rocks and a tarn at the top of the ridge.
Huge rocks and a tarn at the top of the ridge.
Us with a view back toward Tuatapere.
Us with a view back toward Tuatapere.
Looking further west into Fiordland National Park and Lake Poteriteri.
Looking further west into Fiordland National Park and Lake Poteriteri.
Our luxury room with a view.
Our luxury room with a view.

29th October 2024 at 14:27 - Damian

Day 1 part 3. What a climb but what a view!

Apparently 2520 steps in total on the first day.

View from Stag Point toward Tuatapere.
View from Stag Point toward Tuatapere.
New steps put in by DOC contractors in the last few months.
New steps put in by DOC contractors in the last few months.
More steps.
More steps.

29th October 2024 at 13:46 - Damian

Day 1 part 2. 14km and five hours in. Left the coast and have been heading inland for a couple of hours over long stretches of boardwalk.

Stopped for lunch at the shelter just before the slog to the top which gains 700m over 6km.

Lots of boardwalks
Lots of boardwalks
The shelter before the climb
The shelter before the climb
Elevation profile
Elevation profile

29th October 2024 at 09:00 - Damian

Morning! Day 1, part 1 of Hump Ridge Track. 30 minutes of bush walk and then down onto the beach.

We're keeping an eye out for Hectors dolphins, seals and penguins.

It's a beautiful day but it's going to be a long one. 21km with an elevation gain of 1120m.

The entryway to the track.
The entryway to the track.
Lots of boardwalks over eroded sections of the track.
Lots of boardwalks over eroded sections of the track.
3km beach section.
3km beach section.

28th October 2024 at 16:29 - Damian

Tomorrow we're beginning NZ's newest Great Walk: the three-day, 60km Hump Ridge Track¹ near Tuatapere. It officially became a Great Walk three days ago and there will only be *two other people* starting it on the same day as us.

Prepare for an influx of photos over the next few days.

1. doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreati

Maps and more

Link to map of NZ travels New Zealand 2021-
Link to map of European travels Europe 2019-2020
Link to map of Scandinavian travels Scandinavia 2017
Link to blog of our UK travels UK/Europe blog 2017-2020